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Eastern Promise
Latest Post Over recent years there has been a growing rumble of adoration for all things Turkish within the London food scene. The inaugural British Kebab Awards in 2013 were an indicator that something was brewing, and with the growing Turkish influences on menus of recent openings such as Berber & Q, Arabica Bar and Kitchen, Black Axe Mangal and Chifafa Kebabs (with more about to land), its feels like we are in the grip of a little ‘perfect storm’ of Turkish led openings. We also have the dubious pleasure of seeing the phrase ‘posh kebabs” bandied about a fair bit — I wince at that, too.

We’ve come some distance since the first kebab shop and restaurant in the UK opened in 1966, Hodja Nasreddin in Stoke Newington, a spot my parents first brought me to in the mid-70s when I was six months old, sticking the cot under the table while they enjoyed shish kebab (always) and halep kebab, the döner meat slathered in spicy tomato sauce, diced pitta bread soaking up the juices beneath. I may have been staring at the underside of a table for two hours, but I swear I must have vicariously enjoyed the waft of lamb fat and hummus — graduating to a place at the table must have been a happy day. There are now around 20,000 kebab shops in the UK….

Selin Kiazim opens her first restaurant after roles at The Providores and Kopapa, and a warmly received six-month residency at Trip Kitchen in Haggerston — with her Medjool date butter already on the shelves at Selfridges, this has been one of the more impressive build-ups towards a full blown restaurant we’ve seen for a while. She’s been doing more than a few things right….

Read on...
This Week

Stunning squid ink bruschetta; soothing meat brodo; pork belly, anchovy and puntarelle; taglierini, meat and porcini ragù; taglierini with venison ragù; osso bucco and polenta — Zucca as good as it ever was.

Cherry scented Pinot Noir by Cristom, Orgegon, alongside a fine fat slab of pâté en croûte. 110 wines by the glass, and an innovative menu/wine matching layout.

Lasagne of Dorset crab at Galvin La Chapelle: still crazy after all these years. A nailed on exquisite match with Pahlmeyer Chardonnay, Napa Valley.

One of the best laksa in town, at the recently rebranded Momowich in Spitalfields. Malaysian chicken curry, always excellent — a surprisingly great little spot, soon to open in the evenings.


There's a new wine bar in town and it's a beauty. Mark Andrew and Dan Keeling have taken over the former 'Vats Wine Bar' on Lamb's Conduit Street, and the list already gleams with well chosen gems, making it one of the most interesting and exciting in London. There are some serious moves in the kitchen too, with Head Chef Paul Weaver (formerly of Michelin starred The Sportsman and St John), and The Sportsman owner Stephen Harris playing a guiding consulting role overseeing the menu. Highlights of a first visit included a pristine pork, pigeon and pistachio terrine; slipsole and smoked butter; turbot braised in oxidised 1998 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, and Rock Oyster Raveneau, created to be reminiscent of a sip of Chablis. The 300-year-old building oozes with character and the feel of the place screams out for a 'four hour lunch' —

Shoots straight into the upper echelon of great wine bars in London.
The Menu Fetishist Returns

“Here’s our menu, let me know if you have any questions...” The phrase that launched a thousand meals. You read, you choose, you ask, they bring: no titillation here, nothing to see, please move along. You’re a menu fetishist? You sick bastard...

Noble Rot
Issue N8
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Wine List Man vs Inverted Snob

Do you really know about wine? Or is all your swaggering braggadocio about to be mercilessly skewered by the secret wine buff in your midst?

Noble Rot
Issue 6
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Written Welcome
to K–Town

There’s something in the air and it’s Korean flavoured. Zeren Wilson finds out why Korean cuisine is the food of the moment

May 2015
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Written Blue

Spring; The menu bristles with the confidence that means no frilly language, just laconic listings of ingredients with the odd nod to a cooking technique here or there:

Completely London
Spring 2015
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Written Thai Lords

Thai cuisine is on
the verge of a re-appraisal in the UK, with new restaurants cooking regional dishes that really highlight the depth and diversity of the food. Zeren Wilson reports

Caterer & Hotelkeeper,
February 2014
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Written Lambrusco

Having fallen from grace, Lambrusco is now making a comeback in its traditional form as a deep, dry,
sparkling wine from Emilia Romagna. Zeren Wilson hails the return of this once–derided drop.

Christie’s Magazine,
October 2014
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Written California

The wines of Napa Valley and Sonoma County are back in the frame, their characteristic exuberance tempered with the restraint that first wowed the world in 1976. Zeren Wilson, reports

Christie’s Magazine,
November 2014
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Zamo 24' 65' 90 (+3)

Tullio Zamò set up the family run estate of Le Vigne di Zamò in 1978, in the sweet spot of Colli Orientali, which is regarded as one of the best spots in the region for grape growing. One of the ancient indigenous grapes of Friuli, with written reference dating back to 1282, Schiopettino translates as ‘gunshot’ or ‘little crack’, and can display a wild, herbal character that is utterly distinctive. Weighty, dark and inky, violets and cracked black pepper, and a refreshing beam of acidity keeping everything in check. At a Friuli wine dinner at Bibo in Putney, hosted by Guy Harcourt-Wood of importer FortyFive10, this Schiopettino enjoyed the tussle with spicy Italian sausages, braised kale and creamed polenta. Even better were the stunning slow roast pheasant cappeletti with sage butter alongside Le Vigne di Zamò’s Refosco.
Wine of the week
Schiopettino 2007, Le Vigne di Zamò, Friuli, Italy

Available :



Cuvée Sainte Apolline' Grand Cru NV, Leclaire Thiéfaine, Avize, Champagne
Ernest Alfred Leclaire founded this Champagne house in 1878, and six generations have maintained the estate, currently owning 6 hectares sited mostly on the Côte des Blancs. 2 hectares in Avize and Cramant are classed Grand Cru, and provides the Chardonnay for this rather brilliant wine. Toast and brioche aromas lead on to a focused, richly textured palate that has plenty of zip and freshness, oozing 'Grand Cru' swagger with every sip. Distinguished fizz. £24.95 a bottle for a drop this classy? Game on.

Plus De Bulles

Leclaire Thiéfaine