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Kitty Fisher's
Wood grill purrs
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Latest Post In the fervid climate of London restaurant openings, a restaurant butterfly (who me?) is finding it increasingly difficult to go back to enough restaurants, enough times, to get the warm fuzzy glow of being a genuine regular. One lunch and one dinner, even every single day, just simply won't cover it. The pace and number of restaurant openings is almost starting to PISS me off. Give us a break. Come on, this just isn't fair. It's almost cruel. Breathe.....

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This Week

A first run-through for the kitchen at Newman Arms which opens this week. Beautiful lamb rump the highlight, a menu showcasing the finest of Cornish produce. A biased view for sure, as I've helped put the wine list together, but this should become a great new destination for Fitzrovia.

A Kitty Fisher's lunch is always welcome. This time it's langoustines and lardo, grilled lamb cutlets, beef tartare, whipped cod's roe, and several Bad Kitty gin cocktails — perked up with the kick of homemade sloe gin with a slug of good cava.

A first dip into 'sleeper' ramen and curry joint Cocoro in Bloomsbury. The sweetest of service and a much needed soother of Tonkotsu ramen.


Thai curries and handmade khanom jeen rice noodles are the focus of Pestle, appearing at one of the best wine merchants in town (Winemaker's Club) on 26th and 27th August. Seb Holmes is currently Head Chef at Smoking Goat, and is launching Pestle with colleague and former Caravan Head Bartender Thom Lawson. Green curry of smoked rabbit; red jungle curry of mussels and clams; whole sea bass and three flavoured sauce; gola chicken satay — the atmospheric and moody arch of Holborn Viaduct the setting, with a slew of great wines to get stuck into.
The Menu Fetishist Returns

“Here’s our menu, let me know if you have any questions...” The phrase that launched a thousand meals. You read, you choose, you ask, they bring: no titillation here, nothing to see, please move along. You’re a menu fetishist? You sick bastard...

Noble Rot
Issue N8
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Wine List Man vs Inverted Snob

Do you really know about wine? Or is all your swaggering braggadocio about to be mercilessly skewered by the secret wine buff in your midst?

Noble Rot
Issue 6
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Written Welcome
to K–Town

There’s something in the air and it’s Korean flavoured. Zeren Wilson finds out why Korean cuisine is the food of the moment

May 2015
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Written Blue

Spring; The menu bristles with the confidence that means no frilly language, just laconic listings of ingredients with the odd nod to a cooking technique here or there:

Completely London
Spring 2015
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Written Lambrusco

Having fallen from grace, Lambrusco is now making a comeback in its traditional form as a deep, dry,
sparkling wine from Emilia Romagna. Zeren Wilson hails the return of this once–derided drop.

Christie’s Magazine,
October 2014
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Written California

The wines of Napa Valley and Sonoma County are back in the frame, their characteristic exuberance tempered with the restraint that first wowed the world in 1976. Zeren Wilson, reports

Christie’s Magazine,
November 2014
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Del Boy

We're not drinking enough white Bordeaux. Why the hell not? Not trendy enough, with an undeserved whiff of 'Del Boy' wine about them, that'll be it. The wines represent excellent value, and are a nailed on 'second bottle' choice in a restaurant after the first is knocked back over lunch. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with a splash of Muscadelle, this is delicately herb scented, has plenty of zip and verve, and a quiet mineral poise — restaurant list or off the shelf, wines worth seeking out. Go on, Marlene, get that vino collapso down yer neck...
Wine of the week
Château la Gravelle 2014, Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux, France



Cuvée Sainte Apolline' Grand Cru NV, Leclaire Thiéfaine, Avize, Champagne
Ernest Alfred Leclaire founded this Champagne house in 1878, and six generations have maintained the estate, currently owning 6 hectares sited mostly on the Côte des Blancs. 2 hectares in Avize and Cramant are classed Grand Cru, and provides the Chardonnay for this rather brilliant wine. Toast and brioche aromas lead on to a focused, richly textured palate that has plenty of zip and freshness, oozing 'Grand Cru' swagger with every sip. Distinguished fizz. £24.95 a bottle for a drop this classy? Game on.

Plus De Bulles

Leclaire Thiéfaine