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Kitty Fisher's
Wood grill purrs
into action...
Latest Post In the fervid climate of London restaurant openings, a restaurant butterfly (who me?) is finding it increasingly difficult to go back to enough restaurants, enough times, to get the warm fuzzy glow of being a genuine regular. One lunch and one dinner, even every single day, just simply won't cover it. The pace and number of restaurant openings is almost starting to PISS me off. Give us a break. Come on, this just isn't fair. It's almost cruel. Breathe.....

Read on...
This Week

'Dirty Rice' with a shed load of brown crab meat running through it, a couple of plump West Mersea oysters mined from within. Catfish gumbo, fried chicken, shrimp and grits — The Lockhart on fine form.

Curried duck at The Marksman pub on Hackney Road, beef and barley buns, devilled crab on toast. Belting.

Mazesoba ramen, unique option to the new Tonkotsu Bankside. Pork stock, thick-cut noodles, chilli pork mince, marinated pork belly, bonito, raw egg. Hitachino 'red rice' Japanese beer a fine accompaniment.


Influenced by the traditional charcoal wood grills 'Erretegias' found in the Basque Country, Lurra opened this week from the team behind Donostia across the road. Galician Rubia Gallega aged beef is a permanent feature, and a first visit revealed its beauty: sweet and creamy, wickedly buttery fat is where much of the joy lies, punctuated by hunks of rosy beef (14-years-old on this occasion). Suckling lamb cutlets; whole grilled turbot with Txakoli dressing; monkfish with moscatel and garlic sauce; grilled tiger prawns; courgette flower stuffed with cod brandade — the six seats at the eating bar with a view of the grill are the ones to fight for.
The Menu Fetishist Returns

“Here’s our menu, let me know if you have any questions...” The phrase that launched a thousand meals. You read, you choose, you ask, they bring: no titillation here, nothing to see, please move along. You’re a menu fetishist? You sick bastard...

Noble Rot
Issue N8
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Wine List Man vs Inverted Snob

Do you really know about wine? Or is all your swaggering braggadocio about to be mercilessly skewered by the secret wine buff in your midst?

Noble Rot
Issue 6
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Written Welcome
to K–Town

There’s something in the air and it’s Korean flavoured. Zeren Wilson finds out why Korean cuisine is the food of the moment

May 2015
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Written Blue

Spring; The menu bristles with the confidence that means no frilly language, just laconic listings of ingredients with the odd nod to a cooking technique here or there:

Completely London
Spring 2015
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Written Thai Lords

Thai cuisine is on
the verge of a re-appraisal in the UK, with new restaurants cooking regional dishes that really highlight the depth and diversity of the food. Zeren Wilson reports

Caterer & Hotelkeeper,
February 2014
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Written Lambrusco

Having fallen from grace, Lambrusco is now making a comeback in its traditional form as a deep, dry,
sparkling wine from Emilia Romagna. Zeren Wilson hails the return of this once–derided drop.

Christie’s Magazine,
October 2014
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Written California

The wines of Napa Valley and Sonoma County are back in the frame, their characteristic exuberance tempered with the restraint that first wowed the world in 1976. Zeren Wilson, reports

Christie’s Magazine,
November 2014
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Barossa Balance

Tom Shobbrook is making some of the most distinctive wines coming from the Barossa Valley, guided by a philosophy of minimum intervention, unfiltered and unfined wines with minimal use of additional sulphur. This snarls out the traps with a gobful of rich Barossa fruit, and then shows its breeding with bags of freshness, beautiful balance, and a lick of savoury complexity — Syrah that recalls memories of the Northern Rhône rather than blockbuster Barossa.
Wine of the week
Syrah 2012, Shobbrook, Barossa Valley, Australia

Available :



Cuvée Sainte Apolline' Grand Cru NV, Leclaire Thiéfaine, Avize, Champagne
Ernest Alfred Leclaire founded this Champagne house in 1878, and six generations have maintained the estate, currently owning 6 hectares sited mostly on the Côte des Blancs. 2 hectares in Avize and Cramant are classed Grand Cru, and provides the Chardonnay for this rather brilliant wine. Toast and brioche aromas lead on to a focused, richly textured palate that has plenty of zip and freshness, oozing 'Grand Cru' swagger with every sip. Distinguished fizz. £24.95 a bottle for a drop this classy? Game on.

Plus De Bulles

Leclaire Thiéfaine