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Black Axe Mangal
Sultans of KISS
Latest Post Lee Tiernan and wife/business partner Kate Mullinger Tiernan bring Black Axe Mangal to Islington, after a two month stint cooking outside Copenhagen nightclub Bakken, which the website Vice deemed to be a 'sort of ode to Turkish barbecue culture'. Having spent over ten years working with the St John group, and plenty of time kicking around in the USA with top chefs including April Bloomfield and Danny Bowien, there's a firecracking melange of influences that are being busted out on the menu, from St John-esque reverential treatment of all the gnarly, murky bits of the animal, through to asian accented dishes, all seen through a shish shaped Turkish lens — a potent combination.

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This Week

The City is getting increasingly spoiled. First the collection of fine places to eat in Broadgate Circle, now this. How dare they? The new Modern Pantry on Finsbury Square has a great looking bar geared up for all day dining, and Chef/owner Anna Hansen has new moves on this menu: Dhansak spiced rose veal mince omelette; smoked cassava and fenugreek croquettes; smoked mussel, avocado, seaweed and brown crab mayonnaise bun...

Celebrating five years of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, a highlight of Head Chef Peter Weeden imparting his scrambled egg technique to Raymond Blanc in the kitchen with an impromptu demonstration. Scrambled eggs at Le Manoir may never be the same again.

The steak and kidney pie is on for lunch at The Newman Arms in Fitzrovia. It's very good. Full disclosure, I've helped put the wine list together, so I'm biased: but it really is a very good pie.

Hot bean devilled egg, carnitas pork tostada with Jalapeños and crema, patty melt deluxe. Booze soaker uppers par excellence...


Remarkable value £49 lunch on a Saturday? You'll walk away laughing, feeling like you've ram-raided Yauatcha City and blown the 'bladdy doors off' after a medley involving lobster vermicelli pot, truffle pork belly rib, foie gras diced beef, exemplary dim sum (two waves, steamed and fried), cocktails (before and after lunch), dessert and half a bottle of wine — stupidly good eating for the money.
The Menu Fetishist Returns

“Here’s our menu, let me know if you have any questions...” The phrase that launched a thousand meals. You read, you choose, you ask, they bring: no titillation here, nothing to see, please move along. You’re a menu fetishist? You sick bastard...

Noble Rot
Issue N8
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Wine List Man vs Inverted Snob

Do you really know about wine? Or is all your swaggering braggadocio about to be mercilessly skewered by the secret wine buff in your midst?

Noble Rot
Issue 6
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Written Welcome
to K–Town

There’s something in the air and it’s Korean flavoured. Zeren Wilson finds out why Korean cuisine is the food of the moment

May 2015
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Written Blue

Spring; The menu bristles with the confidence that means no frilly language, just laconic listings of ingredients with the odd nod to a cooking technique here or there:

Completely London
Spring 2015
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Written Thai Lords

Thai cuisine is on
the verge of a re-appraisal in the UK, with new restaurants cooking regional dishes that really highlight the depth and diversity of the food. Zeren Wilson reports

Caterer & Hotelkeeper,
February 2014
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Written Lambrusco

Having fallen from grace, Lambrusco is now making a comeback in its traditional form as a deep, dry,
sparkling wine from Emilia Romagna. Zeren Wilson hails the return of this once–derided drop.

Christie’s Magazine,
October 2014
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Written California

The wines of Napa Valley and Sonoma County are back in the frame, their characteristic exuberance tempered with the restraint that first wowed the world in 1976. Zeren Wilson, reports

Christie’s Magazine,
November 2014
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Jump on the Vespa

Vespaiolo is a grape varietal that is beginning to make a bit of noise in London, largely driven by this producer, set up by Mirco and Gloria Gottardi on volcanic soils at the foot of the Alps. 'Vignasilan' is the vineyard 'cru' name for this white from the Breganze DOC, a small commune in the province of Vicenza. This manages to combine a piercing minerality with a lushness taking it close to 'off-dry' territory, a perfect foil for a stack of curried tiger prawns at Pestle, a two-month residency at Sacred Cafe in Holloway — pretty good with the Massaman curry of peach and pineapple, too.
Wine of the week
'Vignasilan' 2013' Contrà Soarda, Veneto, Italy

Available :
(currently at, Holloway branch, Thurs-Sat evenings) —


Cuvée Sainte Apolline' Grand Cru NV, Leclaire Thiéfaine, Avize, Champagne
Ernest Alfred Leclaire founded this Champagne house in 1878, and six generations have maintained the estate, currently owning 6 hectares sited mostly on the Côte des Blancs. 2 hectares in Avize and Cramant are classed Grand Cru, and provides the Chardonnay for this rather brilliant wine. Toast and brioche aromas lead on to a focused, richly textured palate that has plenty of zip and freshness, oozing 'Grand Cru' swagger with every sip. Distinguished fizz. £24.95 a bottle for a drop this classy? Game on.

Plus De Bulles

Leclaire Thiéfaine