Heston Blumenthal will be crowned king of the world, chef deity of the universe, and achieve a glittering apotheosis when Dinner finally lands at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in January 2011.
The creator and owner of the “third best restaurant in the world” The Fat Duck (hey, some Scandinavian oik pushed him down the order), finally arrives with his own gig in London, to be greeted with fevered twitching and anticipation that will approach the mania of Beatles-esque groupies.
The Wizard of Bray will dance into London, accompanied by a host of his chef faeries, led by chief alchemist Ashley Palmer-Watts, head chef at The Fat Duck since 2003.
What to expect? Whizz, bang, pop, playful experimentation à la Fat Duck?
Not so. We are told to expect food rooted in the distant history of Britain back to the 14th century: Hay Smoked Mackerel, Lemon Salad and Gentleman’s Relish; Roast Scallops, Cucumber Ketchup and Bergamot and Slow Cooked Beef Royal.
The Mandarin Oriental website gives a short explanation an edifying history lesson on the etymology of the restaurant name:
“The etymology of the word ‘dinner’ gave rise to the name of the restaurant and encapsulates this research into our much celebrated British culinary history. Originating from the 13th century French word disner (pronounced dee-nay), dinner originally stood for breakfast and developed into the main meal of the day.”
So we will be presented with a paen to British gastronomy, a song rattling the sabre for the revival and modernization of traditional British (do they want to say English? I bet they do) recipes. Interesting and laudable stuff.
They have even appeared to coin a new culinary style, a new wave: Historic, gastronomic, British Cuisine. Their words.
It is indeed exciting for anyone interested in London restaurants in a serious way. I’m excited. The Fat Duck remains one of the most playful, exciting and innovative restaurants in the world, and the new offering from the creator of that restaurant is something to be anticipated with some relish.
It will be playful I’m sure, some of it will flirt with genius, some of it may leave us howling in dismay – no matter. It will be another marker in the ground for London dining.
Two hundred covers for dinner is ambitious, and mighty scary for any kitchen. There will be knives sharpened from circling writers. I’m sure he’s big enough to handle it. The Mandarin Oriental ensures a captive crowd, and having Bar Boulud below and Koffman across the road should help rather than hinder – Knightsbridge is now a serious eating destination to pinball from place to place.
We are booked in a week after opening.
It’s time for Smackdown at Dinner. Bring it Heston….




