December, 2010

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Countdown to Heston Blumenthal and his Faeries

Tuesday, December 21st, 2010

Heston Blumenthal will be crowned king of the world, chef deity of the universe, and achieve a glittering apotheosis when Dinner finally lands at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in January 2011.

The creator and owner of the “third best restaurant in the world” The Fat Duck (hey, some Scandinavian oik pushed him down the order), finally arrives with his own gig in London, to be greeted with fevered twitching and anticipation that will approach the mania of Beatles-esque groupies.

The Wizard of Bray will dance into London, accompanied by a host of his chef faeries, led by chief alchemist Ashley Palmer-Watts, head chef at The Fat Duck since 2003.

What to expect? Whizz, bang, pop, playful experimentation à la Fat Duck?

Not so. We are told to expect food rooted in the distant history of Britain back to the 14th century: Hay Smoked Mackerel, Lemon Salad and Gentleman’s Relish; Roast Scallops, Cucumber Ketchup and Bergamot and Slow Cooked Beef Royal.

The Mandarin Oriental website gives a short explanation an edifying history lesson on the etymology of the restaurant name:

“The etymology of the word ‘dinner’ gave rise to the name of the restaurant and encapsulates this research into our much celebrated British culinary history. Originating from the 13th century French word disner (pronounced dee-nay), dinner originally stood for breakfast and developed into the main meal of the day.”

So we will be presented with a paen to British gastronomy, a song rattling the sabre for the revival and modernization of traditional British (do they want to say English? I bet they do) recipes. Interesting and laudable stuff.

They have even appeared to coin a new culinary style, a new wave: Historic, gastronomic, British Cuisine. Their words.

It is indeed exciting for anyone interested in London restaurants in a serious way. I’m excited. The Fat Duck remains one of the most playful, exciting and innovative restaurants in the world, and the new offering from the creator of that restaurant is something to be anticipated with some relish.

It will be playful I’m sure, some of it will flirt with genius, some of it may leave us howling in dismay – no matter. It will be another marker in the ground for London dining.

Two hundred covers for dinner is ambitious, and mighty scary for any kitchen. There will be knives sharpened from circling writers. I’m sure he’s big enough to handle it. The Mandarin Oriental ensures a captive crowd, and having Bar Boulud below and Koffman across the road should help rather than hinder – Knightsbridge is now a serious eating destination to pinball from place to place.

We are booked in a week after opening.

It’s time for Smackdown at Dinner. Bring it Heston….

www.dinnerbyheston.com

Zucca makes Locatelli Groove

Tuesday, December 14th, 2010

News just in from Richard Vines, chief food critic for Muse, the arts and leisure section of Bloomberg News in his excellent chefs round-up, where leading UK chefs highlight their top meals of the year:

Giorgio enjoyed his recent meal at  Zucca, his first visit.

Chef-Patron Giorgio runs the sleek, Michelin starred Locanda Locatelli, a favourite of ours at Zucca for some time.

When asked by Richard Vines about his best restaurant meals of the year, Giorgio responded:

Zucca. I had a really good meal there. I ate well and liked their style.”

We love you too Giorgio, and we love Locanda.

The full Richard Vines piece is here.

Return of the Mack

Tuesday, December 14th, 2010

Eerie silence whistles through these pages on occasions (aside from the Twitter feed to the side), we know this, we know all this.

We’re working on this, we truly are.

Streets are still being pounded, ears are flattened to the damp soil – when smoke signal come, wigwam flutter.

We are still on the inside (at the peerless Zucca, Bermondsey Street SE1).

Updates froth and bubble beneath the surface.

Heston Blumenthal has been booked @ Dinner in the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park.

It’s still all happening….

Email us on: zeren@bittenandwritten.com to give us a nudge, ask questions, hurl some much needed abuse. It’s all welcome.

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