Noted
The Coach and Horses
22nd Aug, 2018


Scotch Egg with black pudding, The Coach and Horses, Leyton E10

"Are you looking at my bird, mate?"  and "Will you sing your songs outside?"  The Coach and Horses felt like this kind of dive for years: scuzzy carpet, grimy lavs, faint aura of menace.

 

It's all change with this impressive revamp, the kitchen led by hip-hop loving local chef Steven Wilson, who has spent time in some top London kitchens. With Leyton Orient currently languishing in the Vanarama National League – within chanting distance of the pub – this is another welcome boost for Leyton which has started getting jiggy, most significantly on Francis Road with the additions of Yardarm, Kettle & Ryan, Marmelo Kitchen  and friends. 

 

Several visits and the 'perfect pub' classics are being ticked off:

 

* Sausage roll is a Platonic ideal (massive) and a very fair £4.50 for the size. 1-0.

 

* Scotch Egg: Cumberland mince with a smattering of Clonakilty black pudding. Top corner.

 

* Crisp potato cake with roasted garlic mayo. Cheffy layers of mandolined potatoes, a nod to the classic Pavés de pommes de terre.

Hat-trick (2', 57', 89').

 

Return trips are made to make sure this isn't a mirage, just to check that it's a bona fide pub with owners that give a massive toss about what's going on. The Sunday Roast is a beauty, probably the best that Leyton has seen for decades. Beef suet pudding with mash and liquor is the clincher – deeply satisfying on a drizzly day, a mound of suet giving way to reveal hunks of tender short rib, the whole lot collapsing into parsley flecked liquor (no eel juice here, no eels on the menu...yet), with a jug of extra liquor on the side. Woof.

 

The owners have form, led by Ronnie Finch who transformed The Duke in Wanstead a few years ago, as well as partnering with chef Chris Hruskova on Hackney bakery The Bread Station – next project is the reopening of The Leytonstone Tavern.

 

"Will you sing your songs outside?"  – Yes mate, just let me finish this Scotch Egg...

 

391 High Road

Leyton

E10 5NA

thecoachleyton.com


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