One of my local pubs has undergone a shuddering, glorious transformation. Pulled up sharply by its boot straps, it has gone from gloomy, scruffy and intimidating to a bright and sunny, family friendly pub, with a food and drink offering of genuine charm. Recently installed Head Chef is Christoffer Hruskova, formerly of Michelin starred North Road in Farringdon. The menu is now a joy, with some storming recent highlights: stout braised Ox cheeks with smoked bone marrow; smoked foie gras and quince compote; tattie scones with egg and bacon on the brunch menu. Hoorah. Wanstead deserves this pub.