One of the most recognisable categories in the wine world, Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire’s Sancerre appellation can often be a 'yawn-off', and - more often than not - a right royal ‘rip-off’ too. Wines from nearby Quincy, Reuilly, Menetou-Salon or a generic Touraine often tend to outperform standard Sancerre, at a snip of the price. Enter the wines of Sebastien Riffault, atypical in style and something of a vinous slap in the face if plodding Sancerre is what you’re expecting. Fermented in large oak barrels, wild yeasts, unfiltered, no sulphur additions: golden hued and lushly textured, this is serious and age-worthy Sauvignon, not to be boshed straight from the ice bucket. Enjoyed at Primeur in Canonbury, as they showcased a flavour of what to expect from their next restaurant in Holloway, the seafood-focused Westerns Laundry. Cuttlefish, ham and squid ink croquettes – blew the bloody doors off.