Frascati, Marlene? A mention of Frascati conjures up images of naff 70s and 80s dinner parties and wine bars, a wine that somehow lost favour in the UK amidst a sea of the cheaper, 'battery acid-alike' end of the spectrum. Archeological evidence points to grapes for wine being cultivated around the town of Frascati since the 5th century B.C., and supped by the denizens of Ancient Rome. This tiny two hectare estate run by Chiara and Daniele was a former producer of the bulk 'chugging' stuff, but now produces some eye-wideningly exciting wine. Mainly Malvasia with some Trebbiano, unfiltered with no sulphur additions, this has verve and texture to burn: seamlessly balanced. Imported by Winemakers Club who have just opened their bar and restaurant in Deptford High Street — the Lazio Rosso made with Cesanese is beautiful, too.

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