Keller’s reputation just keeps growing. I first sold these wines while working at a German specialist importer, The Winery in Maida Vale, back in 2004 – now his wines regularly make an appearance on some of the best wine lists in town.
Rheinhessen used to be notorious chiefly for producing bulk wine as well as the much-maligned Liebfraumilch (mostly Müller-Thurgau rather than Riesling), but growers like Keller have made great strides in raising its profile for producing high quality Riesling.
The Keller vineyards are based at the foot of the Donnersberg mountain – the highest in the region – and where rainfall is the lowest in Germany, helping to limit yields and increase fruit concentration. ‘Von der Fels’ is made from a selection of Klaus-Peter Keller’s top sites, and is a fine example of dazzling dry Riesling, chock-full of sleek, saline, citrus-charged minerality.
Enjoyed alongside some stunning plates at Ta Ta Eatery, a unique spot from Zijun Meng and Ana Gonçalves in Haggerston: a ferociously good match with a tempura of nuka pickled asparagus with crab and lovage mayonnaise.